Replacing Shock Absorbers

When buying new shocks for your VW to determine the size if you are non stock, you should remove the old one put the wheel back on the car and let it back on the floor, then measure the distance between your two shock mounts. This will determine the size you require do it for both the front and back wheel separately. I have used KYB GR2 successfully on splitscreen vans and used the Bugpack oil shocks on beetles but there are many options out there so do your research.

Removal and replacement of the shock absorbers is not a difficult task most aircooled VW's are the same with the exception of the later 1303 beetles which have McPherson struts like on the modern cars where you will require spring compressors to compress the springs before removing the strut. Below are a few words & pictures of it being carried out on a split screen van with straight axle adapters but it in essence its the same process on VW's.

Loosen your wheel bolts, jack it up and get it on axle stands, take your wheel off and you will be presented with two bolts top and bottom in this case they were 17mm or 19mm.

Undo the bottom bolt.


Undo the top bolt.


The shock will now be free, slide it out, they may need a bit of persuasion with a rubber hammer.


Fitting is simply the reverse, but make sure you pump the shock about 10 times before putting it on this is often forgotten. Once you have bolted them in, ensure you torque them up correctly replacing any faulty or warn bolts, washers etc.


This is why they were replaced as you can see the old ones once compressed they never expand again which will affect your ride quality. You should have some resistance when the shock pushes back up.

A good gude chief but i think its only gas charged shocks that return on their own but your right that there should be resistance on the way back up